Nepal Group Trek – Upper Dolpo

Hopefully you had a good first night and recovered a bit from the journey to Nepal.

After breakfast, we have our pre-trip meeting. We go through the itinerary together and check your gear. Missing something? Your guide will take you to the outdoor shops nearby to get everything sorted.

Got everything you need? Take the rest of the day to recover from the jetlag, explore Thamel or venture a little further into the city.

Sightseeing

Want to go for a small walk in the afternoon? Here are some ideas on walking distance from your hotel.

Swoyambhunath Stupa

Also known as the Monkey Temple, Swayambhunath sits on a hilltop about 20 minutes west of Thamel. The climb up the stone staircase is steep, but the reward is a panoramic view over Kathmandu and a stupa surrounded by dozens of resident monkeys. The all-seeing eyes painted on the tower watch over the city from every angle. One of the oldest religious sites in Nepal, revered by both Hindus and Buddhists.

Kathmandu Durbar Square

About 15 minutes on foot from Thamel, Kathmandu Durbar Square is the historic heart of the old city. The square was the seat of the Malla and Shah kings for centuries and is still used today for religious ceremonies, including those of the Kumari, the living goddess whose residence is located within the complex. The temples, courtyards and wooden carvings date back to the 15th and 16th centuries. Some structures are still being restored after the 2015 earthquake, but the square remains one of the most compelling places in the city. Walk there from Thamel and take the back streets: the journey is half the experience.

We take an early flight from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj, a bustling town in the western Terai. The south of Nepal. It’s hot, flat and alive with colour. A world away from what is coming. We spend the night here, ready for the early morning flight tomorrow.

An early morning flight from Nepalgunj to Juphal, a short airstrip surrounded by mountains. The moment the plane lands, the remoteness is palpable. We meet our camping crew and porters, load the bags and begin walking to Dunai, the administrative centre of the Dolpa district.

The trek begins in earnest. We follow the Suli Gad river upstream through pine forest and small settlements. The valley narrows as we climb. Chhepka is a quiet settlement at the edge of wilder terrain.

We continue upstream through increasingly dramatic gorges. Waterfalls appear on the cliffs above. The forest deepens. Saijol is a small settlement where the outside world feels very far away.

A shorter day with an extraordinary ending. The trail rounds a ridge and Phoksundo Lake appears below, a vast body of impossibly turquoise water set against bare rock walls and the first snow. Nepal’s deepest lake. Nothing can prepare you for it. We camp near Ringmo village.

We have a full day by the lake. Visit the ancient Bon monastery above the village, walk to the waterfall at the lake’s edge or simply sit and watch the light move across the water. The altitude here is real. Rest is not optional.

We leave the lake behind and follow the Phoksundo Khola river north into wilder terrain. The landscape strips back to rock and sky. Sallaghari is a basic camp at the edge of the high plateau.

A long, steep climb to the camp below the Kang La Pass. The air thins noticeably. Above us, the first great pass of the trek. We eat early, rest and prepare. Tomorrow demands everything.

Up before dawn. The climb to Kang La is steep and exposed. Loose rock, thin air, views that grow with every step. At the summit, the entire Upper Dolpo plateau unfolds below. The descent to Shey Gompa is long but extraordinary. Shey Gompa, known as the Crystal Mountain monastery, is one of the most sacred sites in all of Dolpo. We spend two nights here.

A day to explore and breathe. The monastery complex is ancient and still active. Monks live and practice here year-round. Walk up to the Crystal Mountain viewpoint, visit the caves above the gompa or simply sit in the courtyard and let the silence do its work.

The second pass. The Shey La is demanding after days at altitude but shorter than the Kang La. On the other side, the trail descends to Namgung Gompa — a monastery built directly into a cliff face, one of the most dramatic sights of the entire trek.

We descend from the monastery and follow the trail through remote valleys to Saldang, one of the largest villages in the Dolpo region. Stone houses, prayer flags and people who have lived here for generations with almost no contact with the outside world.

We climb again, passing through Yangjer Monastery on the way to Musi Village. It’s one of the last settlements before the Tibetan border. The views here are vast and the silence is total.

The third pass today. The Muri La is a long approach across open plateau before the final climb to the summit. The descent to Simen is steep and rewarding.

Three passes crossed. Three more to go! 💪

A shorter day through wide, open terrain. The landscape here is unmistakably trans-Himalaya. Dry, vast and almost lunar. Tinje is a traditional village with a monastery.

We leave the village behind and climb steadily to the high camp below the Choi La. The nomad camps along the way are a reminder that this plateau has been home to herders for centuries.

Tomorrow is another pass day.

The fourth pass! The Choi La is challenging but the views from the summit are extraordinary. The descent to Tokyu winds through pastureland and high meadows where yaks graze in silence.

A relaxed day through open terrain. We move at a gentler pace, following the trail through wide valleys with big skies. A good day to look around and take it all in before the next push.

The fourth pass and the second highest of the trek. The Jhyargo La is a serious crossing. A long approach, a demanding summit and a descent to the yak pastures of Yak Kharkha. Camp tonight in the open at nearly 4,800 m.

Today’s the day of the fifth  pass. We cross the Mola and descend to Chharka Bhot, a village that marks the end of the most remote section of the trek. We spend two nights here.

This is a day to explore Chharka and its Bon Buddhist monastery. Or, we can visit the caves above the village, talk to the monks or simply walk the surrounding hills. The hardest section is behind us. Your body deserves a full day of rest.

We leave Chharka and follow wide, flat trails upstream. Streams and nomad camps appear along the way. The terrain is raw and open. Camp tonight at Molumsumna, high on the plateau.

Today’s we cross the sixth and highest pass of the entire trek. The Junbeni Pass demands everything the previous weeks have been building towards. At 5,550 m, the views stretch beyond anything we have seen so far. The descent to Ghaldeng Ghuldung is steep and long. We made it!

Congrats! Six passes crossed. The full Upper Dolpo traverse is complete. This is something very few people in the world have ever done. 💪

The landscape begins to shift. We are entering the Mustang region now. It’s drier, more open, with the distinctive red and ochre cliffs that characterise this part of Nepal. Sangda is a traditional Tibetan village where the culture feels as old as the mountains.

We continue descending through rocky terrain and wide valleys. The Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges appear on the horizon. After weeks in the remote west, familiar peaks feel like old friends.

Today is our final walking day.

We follow the Kali Gandaki river, the deepest gorge on earth, south to Jomsom. The wind picks up in the afternoon, as it always does here. Tonight we sleep in a teahouse for the first time in weeks.

Early morning we board a jeep to Pokhara.  To a hot shower and a soft bed.

We catch the bus back to Kathmandu. In the evening, a well-earned dinner together. A toast to this extraordinary adventure and the people we shared it with.

A free day in the city. It’s a great opportunity for sightseeing. There’s so much to explore! Or pick up souvenirs or find a quiet corner in one of the many restaurants nearby.

Sightseeing  in Kathmandu

Kathmandu is an ancient city with many UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Want to explore the city today? Here are some ideas.

Bhaktapur Durbar Square

About 13 km east of Kathmandu lies Bhaktapur, a medieval city that feels like it has barely changed in centuries. The Durbar Square is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and home to the Palace of 55 Windows, the five-story Nyatapola Temple and the ornate Golden Gate. Behind the square, Pottery Square is still a working craft centre where local artisans shape clay by hand, just as they have done for generations.

Boudhanath Stupa

One of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Boudhanath is the spiritual heart of the Tibetan community in Kathmandu. Walking the kora, the circular path around the stupa, alongside monks, pilgrims and locals is an experience that stays with you. The whitewashed dome, the prayer flags and the steady hum of chanting make this place unlike anywhere else in the city.

Pashupatinath Temple

The holiest Hindu temple in Nepal, dedicated to Lord Shiva in his form as Pashupati, protector of animals. The temple complex sits on the banks of the sacred Bagmati River, about 5 km from Thamel. Non-Hindus cannot enter the main temple, but the surrounding complex is open to all. From the eastern bank of the river, you can watch the cremation ghats and the daily rituals that have taken place here for centuries.

If this is the final day of your trip in Nepal, your international flight departs from Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu.

Goodbye friends! We hope you will cherish the memories we’ve made together forever. And see you on the next adventure! 🙏🏽